Trieste, the European capital of coffee. Кофе trieste


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Caffé Trieste

Front Page January 30th, 2016admin

The city of Trieste has been known as the city of coffee since the times of Napoleon Bonaparte. During the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it has become the most important merchant port of the whole empire and the goods handled in it had their origins in both of the Americas, East and West India. In that time, coffee was becoming the most traded article, because it has started to gain popularity in all the major European cities.The city of Trieste itself supplying the fruits of the coffee plant to other European destinations at that time began its love story with coffee, which prevailed until the present day. This relationship is based on the vivid passion of the people and companies, which day by day make the effort to produce a coffee that is unique, and offer world class products and services. Coffee is not only popular in the city of Trieste, it is a form of art. Every street, every single building is directly or indirectly related to coffee: importers, exporters, shops, marketplaces, roasting houses, cafés. We represent, and want to represent all of this which is a responsibility as well as a task which we carry out every day.

About us March 5th, 2016admin

Our coffee comes from selective plantations in Central and South America as well as Central Africa. Italy is roasted in a way which gives it a strong but not invasive taste in the mouth leaving almost feel like velvet, while our coffee remains sweet and bitter at the same time – a concert raises feelings and flavors. BAR Our coffee is a blend of southern and northern Italy and includes seven types of coffee beans of different origins.

Caffé trieste March 5th, 2016admin

Regular customers

Apart from the classics: espresso, latte macchiato or cappuccino, in our café’s we serve d’Orzo coffee, ginseng coffee, guarana coffee, coffee sweets, typical Italian products and most of all products from the city and region of Trieste.In our stores or online you can also buy five types of coffee bean mixtures, which can be grinded upon your request.We also represent the Caffemotive Company and thus the top-notch Italian production of coffee machines, coffee grinders as well as the revolutionary Bacchi espresso.

Coffee machines for households

We offer coffee machines not only for professional but also for home use. Get cafe quality coffee quickly and easily at any time you want. Didiesse Frog machines are an ideal choice for treating your family and friends with a perfect cup of coffee.

Clients March 5th, 2016admin

Professional customers

We offer domestic and international sale and delivery of our coffee, sugar, biscuits, and chocolate for formidable prices always putting quality first.For our clients we also provide free consulting in order to prepare the best Italian espresso.To the owners of restaurants, bars and professional bartenders we also offer San Marco coffee machines and coffee grinders as well as Fiorenzato coffee blenders (for special needs and requests), spare parts and accessories for coffee machines.

Coffee machine for professional use

We supply a wide range of professional coffee machines and accessories that are easy to operate and maintain. Delight your customers with delicious, unique coffee at reasonable price.

Professional customers March 5th, 2016admin

Everything you need for your coffee shop

In addition to fine coffee and high quality coffee machines, we also offer a fantastic selection of milk, bitter and white chocolates. Each type of our chocolate has a specific taste on its own that everyone becomes fond of immediately after tasting it. Our Verona biscuits make the flavour of chocolate and coffee even stronger. Of course, there is also the usual assortment of cane and white sugar.

Everything you need for your coffee shop March 5th, 2016admin

Master Distributor

CAFFÉ TRIESTE, s.r.o.Uršulínska 2,04001 – KOŠICE (SK)

Riccardo Scarpa:+39 3356699756 or +421 902119839

Marcello Martin+39 3294948421 or +421 914188885

Contact us January 30th, 2016admin

Poprad

RICCARDO SCARPA: +421 902119839

MARCELLO MARTIN: +421 914188885

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Banská Bystrica

V tomto meste prevádzku nemáme, avšak môžete nás kontaktovať na naších hlavných kontaktných údajoch:

CAFFÉ TRIESTE, s.r.o.Uršulínska 2, 04001 KOŠICE

Riccardo Scarpa: +421 902119839 alebo +39 3356699756 Marcello Martin: +421 914188885 alebo +39 [email protected]

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Ostrava

CAFFÉ TRIESTE, s.r.o.+420 734 831 698

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caffetrieste.org

Trieste, the European capital of coffee. – Mikemeacoffee

A few months ago i had the opportunity to visit a very beautiful Italian city with long Coffee history, characterised as the capital of coffee in Europe. Trieste is a small Italian city with a very important port located at the norther sea side part of Italy close  to Venice.According to the coffee history this was the port where coffee was imported for the first time into Europe from the Dutch sailors of that time ( around 1650-1680 ).Actually I was blessed to be chosen, from the company I am working for, to be sent to participate at the Coffee expert course of Illy University of coffee . A three days course full of coffee experiences and education. I had the opportunity also to take a tour around the huge factory and the warehouses of illy from green bean to portioning where the production numbers are incredibly high.Lets take a tour together to this 3 days coffee trip together.

My flight was from Amsterdam to Rome and then a short one to a village outside of Trieste ( I don’t remember the name 😦 ) . After the second flight it took me around 1 hour with a bus to step on this beautiful Italian City.

The next morning a car from illy came to pick me up from the hotel together with other participants coming from all over the world. The weather was perfect and my mood also. We were welcomed from the marketing manager of illy worldwide at the lounch of the illy village. The area is so huge that some of the employees use golf cars to move around.

At the welcome desk I gave my ID and I got the illy ID, and except the entrance allowance to different illy buildings was also offering UNLIMITED COFFEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!. The first espresso of the day was made for me from a lady in a beautifully decorated bar. The lady looked like she is working there for loooooong time and the bar was the meeting point of all employees and visitors and always very very busy. By the way every employ is allowed to take a coffee brake when ever he likes!!! What a job….

After a few coffees down there we took a move to start our coffee education at the building were the university of coffee takes place. 

The classroom was dark with plenty of sits and decorated with illy cups and coffee cans. In front of the desks were two screen projectors displaying education materials and 4 coffee machines fully framed with all the equipment needed. The “lesson” started with some very interesting  historical facts about Illy, the city of Trieste and for coffee in general. During this part of the lesson we had also the opportunity to see live the famous ‘illetta‘, the first automatic coffee machine which substituted pressurised water for steam, invented from the founder of ‘illycaffe’ Francesco Illy. Unfortunately we couldn’t use our phones-cameras during this presentation, but there are plenty of photos available online. After the lunch we got more into coffee process from green bean to cup and this was also part of the second day’s “lesson”. The rest of the second day we talked about different coffee beverages and the right procedure of preparing them. The third day was the practice day!!! I made a lot of cappuccino’s, latte’s and flat whites with decent latte art as you can see on the photo. After a day with a lot of fun, preparing coffees with unlimited coffee and milk available, I got my diploma from Illy University and my ID back with the feeling that I know a bit more about coffee.

The same evening we had the opportunity to have dinner with the illy trainers at a very traditional restaurant of Trieste named OSTERIA CON CUCINA with delicious seafood, very long catalogue of wines and a very friendly high level service.

Highly recommended for traditional Italian sea food!!!

Trieste is a small city and the Illy business located there gives work to more than 3000 citizens!!!! Of course most of the local cafe’s and restaurants are offering illy coffee. Although there are many small coffee roasters with great coffee!

The last day on this wonderful city I had also the opportunity to visit the coffee exhibition of Trieste named ‘ TRIESTE THE EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF COFFEE’. Located next to the port with a lot of coffee history books and more….

Trieste became one of my favorite cities and I will come back soon!

Grazie Trieste per la grande esperienza!!!!

 

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mikemeacoffee.com

Top 10 historic cafés and pastry shops in Trieste

More than any other city in Italy, Trieste is inextricably linked to the world of coffee. Since the 18th century the Adriatic seaport has been the Mediterranean’s main coffee harbor, where the green beans arrive from around the world. The capital of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region also serves as a global hub for the coffee roasting industry, with among the many small, local coffee roasting businesses also the world famous Triestine company, Illy. Add to that the city’s many historic cafés and you’ll understand why the aroma of freshly-roasted beans and brewed coffee is always swirling in the air.

Caffè San Marco, Trieste

The unique rapport between the Triestines and their favorite brewage (the inhabitants of Trieste drink almost twice as much coffee as the rest of Italy, 10kg per capita a year versus 5.8kg for the national average) is even visible in their language. They have developed their own coffee jargon, only intelligible by the initiated, that can be rather confusing for the non-locals. See: How to order a coffee in Trieste.

 

Many of Trieste’s historic cafés used their own brands and blends of coffee, and some still do today. Actually, this is precisely what characterizes the coffee production in Trieste, which has no equivalent in the rest of Italy, except maybe in Naples and Palermo, where small coffee roasting businesses cater directly to Trieste’s coffee houses. This creates the rather unique experience of tasting a different coffee in every café.

Trieste’s first “coffee shop” (then called cafeteria) opened in Via S. Nicolo’ (formerly Contrada Bottari) in 1768. It was in fact not much more than a license to sell “hot and cold waters, tea, coffee, hot chocolate, lemonades and syrup water” in addition to the permission to have “biliard tables and bake biscuits”.

Just like a good blend of coffee is composed of beans of different flavors and origins, so is the city’s history and culture made of different languages and traditions, which is in turn reflected in its coffee houses. At first, each coffee house was associated with a clientele of specific origin. Stella Polare, for example, was mostly frequented by the German community, whereas Caffè Greco was the bastion for the Greek community and Griot, founded by a Swiss family, the meeting point for the Triestine nobility and business men. By 1857 the city counted 57 coffee houses (according to a guide published by Lloyd Austriaco) for a population that counted hardly 56,000 inhabitants. By 1911 that number even rose to 98.

Caffè Greco, Trieste. Source: I Nostri Nonni. Pagine Della Vita Triestina Dal 1800 Al 1830 by Giuseppe Caprin.

With the time, the cafés became associated with specific socio-cultural groups rather than national communities. Some cafés became the meeting places for the irredentists, Italian nationalists who advocated the return to Italy of Italian-speaking districts under Austrian-Hungarian rule such as Trieste, Gorizia, Istria and Dalmatia. Others were frequented by the bourgeoisie or by business men. There were also literary cafés, mostly frequented by intellectuals, writers and artists.

Soon, the city’s cafés became thè places to be, where people could mingle in the typical, friendly but anonymous, Triestine way. James Joyce, Stendhal, Kafka, Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba and the contemporary Triestine writers Paolo Rumiz, Fulvio Tomizza, or Claudio Magris each had their favorite café.

The poet Umberto Saba in front of Caffè Garibaldi in Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Unfortunately, many of Trieste’s historic cafés have been destroyed or transformed beyond recognition. Caffè Tergesteo, until recently located in the eponymous gallery on Piazza della Borsa, Bar Venier in Piazza Goldoni, Café Garibaldi, Caffè Flora and Caffè Orientale, the latter three in Piazza Unità d’Italia, are just a few examples of Trieste’s rich coffee-cultural heritage that have been lost to history.

Former Bar Tergesteo, unfortunately now replaced by a…. Punto Enel. Photo by Paolo Tosolini (2004).

Among the ones of historic significance still operating today are the following 8 historic cafés and 2 historic pastry shops mentioned below:

 

1. Caffè San MarcoVia Battisti 1834125 TriesteTel: +39 040 363538

 

Caffè San Marco is by far my favorite café in Trieste, and maybe even my personal pick among all historic cafés I visited in Florence, Turin and Rome. I loved the airy yet, at the same time, very cozy lay-out and the stylish interior decoration, all spiced up with hidden symbols and metaphors, which recall the origin of the coffee house and its irredentist spirit.

 

It is also one of the few coffee houses that has remained true to its tradition as a literary café. Indeed, since 2013 the café hosts the bookshop San Marco, adding an additional appealing touch for those who love to read and write in an ambiance surrounded by books, but not just books. Concerts, exhibitions and other cultural events are held here on a regular basis turning the café into a cultural hub just as it used to be in the beginning of the 1900s, when intellectuals, writers and irredentists gathered here. An inviting place where you come to read, write or contemplate the lively atmosphere soaking up the inspirational vibes that have been hanging in the air for centuries!Not to mention their delicious chocolate and pear cake !

 

 

 

Opened on January 3 in 1914, the café was named after its first owner Marco Lovrinovich, a wine dealer. Originally, the Austrian authorities opposed the name claiming that it didn’t fit the Triestine tradition, as it sounded too Venetian. However, Lovrinovich claimed that he should be allowed to call the café after himself, and was eventually granted the permit. Yet, it seems that Lovrinovich liked to maintain the ambiguity as the café is full of references to the Venetian San Marco lion, with lion heads featured on the counter (designed by Conte), and an univocal decorative panel hanging in the side room. Even the wrought iron feet of the marble tables represent lion paws.

If you have a closer look you will also find other symbolic and metaphoric elements, such as coffee leaves and cherries, blended into the decoration of the furniture, walls and ceilings. Interesting are also the forty three river allegories representing rivers of Italy and the Friuli Venezia Giulia region, and the thirty six mask paintings, which adorn the walls throughout the café. Because of these Café San Marco was even dubbed Caffè delle Maschere at some point.

Masks banner with coffee leaves and coffee cherries in the background.

Intellectuals and writers, such as Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba, James Joyce, Gianni Stuparich and Virgilio Giotti all appreciated the cozy atmosphere and, because of its position a bit off the city center, the café also became a bastion for the irredentists, who probably chose the coffee house for its location. At the high time of Italian irredentism fake passports were even printed and distributed here.

Claudia Cardinale and Rada Rassimov in Senelità (Careless in the US, 1962) by Mauro Bolognini based on the eponymous novel by Italo Svevo.

The venue was also used as a film set in 1962 for the movie Senelità (Careless in the US) by Mauro Bolognini based on the eponymous novel by Italo Svevo. In the photo below you can see Claudia Cardinale and Rada Rassimov.

The Television drama La Coscienza di Zeno 1987 by Sandro Bolchi with Johnny Dorelli in the role ofZeno Cosini was shot here in 1987.

 

2. Caffè degli Specchi

Piazza Unità d’Italia 734121 TriesteTel: +39 040 370187

Due to its central location in Piazza Unità d’Italia, Caffè degli Specchi has always been the barometer of the town’s city life and history. It is the only testimony of what was once Trieste’s main square lined with cafés, among which Caffè Garibaldi (under Palazzo del Municipio), Caffè Flora (in Casa Pitteri) and Caffè Orientale (under Palazzo Loyd), now part of the past.

Caffè degli Specchi in Palazzo Stratti, Trieste

Palazzo Stratti, the building where Caffè degli Specchi is situated, was built by the Greek Nicolo’ Stratti, who was also the owner of the license “bottega da caffè”. Nicolò Privolo, also a Greek, opened the café in 1839. He decided to cover the walls with engraved mirrors, which each recounted a historical event that occurred in nineteenth century Europe. This was a smart strategic move rather than a purely esthetic one. Indeed, before electricity (electric lighting was only introduced in 1933), most visitors left at sundown because the cafés were dark. With the mirrors, candles and oil lamps were reflected a hundreds of times, illuminating the café with shimmering light, which allowed visitors to stay longer even after dusk. Today, only three of the original mirrors have remained in place.

 

In the basement of the café there is relic piece of a wall of the ancient Castello Amarina built by the Venetians in 1370. Next to the site where the café was built there was an ancient church di San Pietro demolished in 1822.

The café was requisitioned in 1945 when the Anglo-American forces used it as headquarters for the Royal Navy. Until 1954, year when Trieste was annexed to Italy, locals were only allowed inside the café if accompanied by a British military.

 

3. Antico Caffè Torinese

Corso Italia 234121 TriesteTel: +39 389 654 3611

 

Antico Caffè Torinese was founded in 1915, at the corner of Corso Italia and Via Roma. It may not look like much from the outside, but step inside and you’ll be absolutely amazed. The café, where even the ceiling is covered with fine wooden paneling, is a little gem inside.

 

The interior made of precious teak and fruit tree wood is the work of cabinetmaker Giuliano Debelli (whose logo is visible on some pieces). Once you know that Debelli used to make the fine wooden interiors of transatlantic ships such as Saturnia and Vulcania (1925-1926), you’ll understand why the small café hints at the atmosphere of a luxury Belle Epoque passenger ship. The fixed furniture system made of wooden cabinets, drawers and shelves, and the magnificent crystal chandelier all beautifully work together to confer an aura of grandeur to an otherwise tiny space.

 

The counter in Art Nouveau style may be the only of its kind left in Trieste. The beautiful tin and lead border, a material that was previously only used for fishmonger counters, was temporarily removed by the owners during WWII to prevent it from being seized for the war effort.

A further peculiarity of the café is that is has no restroom, which is rather unusual, as a café with tables which is not intended as a take-away must have a restroom according to Italian law. However, as Antico Caffè Torinese started as a pastry and chocolate shop it had no bathroom originally. Now, the building has been listed under historical preservation protection so it can no longer be altered.

 

Like other historic cafés, the coffee house has its own blend of coffee, branded Antico Caffè Torinese.

 

4. Caffè Stella Polare

Via Dante 1434122 TriesteTel: +39 040 632742

 

Founded in 1867, next to the Serbian orthodox church San Spiridione alongside the Grand Canal, Caffè Stella Polare has always been frequented by local merchants, citizens and intellectuals.

Serbian Orthodox Saint Spyridon Church, Trieste

Originally the coffee house extended up until the Church San Spiridione and was also much deeper. In front of the coffee house was the canal, which at that time extended up to Via Dante Alighieri.

The coffee house was so spacious inside that it could contain several billiard tables and about 20 game tables.

In the beginning of 1904, the old three-story building was torn down to make way for the current coffee house, while Café Stella Polare moved provisionally into a wooden pavilion, located opposite the Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo.

At the end of WWII, during the Anglo-American occupation, the café was transformed into a dance hall frequented by local woman and American soldiers stationed in Trieste. Some of them met their future husbands here and moved overseas with them after the annexation of the city to Italy. However, with the time, the cost of maintaining the ball and game rooms became too high, and only the café part has survived to this day. The café has been completely renovated. Only the mirrors and the arches with carved stucco decoration are original.

 

5. Caffè Tommaseo

Piazza Tommaseo 4/c34121 TriesteTel: +39 040 362666

Caffè Tommaseo is the oldest café of Trieste, founded in 1830. The venue was famous for its gelati and its concerts. Actually, it was the first in town to sell gelato at the beginning of the last century.

 

Originally, it was named Caffè Tomaso, after the first owner Tomaso Marcato. Located in the eponymous square, it has always been a meeting point for business men and politics. The interior alone, with its beautiful mirrors from Belgium, decorated ceilings and wooden chairs in Thonet style, is worth the detour. The café was restored in 1997 keeping the original sophisticated neo-classical style.The writers and poets Pier Antonio Quarantotti Gambini, Pasquale Giuseppe Besenghi degli Ughi, James Joyce, Umberto Saba, Italo Svevo, Giani Stuparich were all habitués.

Under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire the café, the café was the meeting place of the revolutionaries, as one can read from a sign:Da questo Caffè Tommaseo, nel 1848, centro del movimento nazionale, si diffuse la fiamma degli entusiasmi per la libertà italiana.

 

6. Caffè Urbanis

Angle of Via del Teatro and Piazza della Borsa34121 TriesteTel: +39 040 366580

 

Started as a pastry shop in 1832, Caffè Urbanis is now one of the favorite bars frequented by the Triestine young people at night.

 

 

The interior has been elegantly renovated, leaving, however, little clue as to original layout and atmosphere.

 

Caffé Urbanis ceiling. Photo © lironmil

 

Worth seeing is the original mosaic pavement which contains various representations, the sea, the bora and mythological symbols. The foundation year is still visible on the windows and in the mosaic.

 

Caffé Urbanis mosaic floor. Photo © lironmil

 

7. Bar Cattaruzza

Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi 1/D34132 TriesteTel: +39 335 818 0170

Bar Cattaruza, Trieste. Photo © Mimi Amnell.

This small café was founded by the Cattaruzza family in 1938. It is housed in the historic building Palazzo Aedes, the first “skyscraper” built in Trieste in 1926-1928, inspired by the first red-brick skyscrapers of New York (hence the nickname “il grattacielo rosso” – red skyscraper).

Photo © Paolo Longo

Local artists from the nearby Teatro Miela were habitués of this Art déco coffee house.

 

8. Gran Bar Italia

Piazza Carlo Goldoni 634122 TriesteTel: +39 328 407 8839

Source: www.granbaritalia.it

Gran Bar Italia is located under Palazzo Parisi in Piazza Goldoni. Opened in the 1920s, it was originally called Bar Grande Italia, which translates the spirit of that time.

 

9. Caffè Pasticceria Pironi

Largo Barriera Vecchia 1234129 TriesteTel: +39 040 636046

Caffè Pasticceria Pironi is famous as the pastry house where James Joyce bought his favorite sweet treats, as he lived at number 32 in the same street for a while. Among his favorite cakes were the pinolate.

 

Sadly it is also the only remaining historic shop in the neighborhood of Largo Barriera Vecchia, as the demolition spree of the Thirties saw the former Caffè Bizantino and Caffè Réclame disappear.

 

 

 

10. Pasticceria La Bomboniera

via Trenta ottobre 334122 TriesteTel: +39 040 632752

The Art Nouveau-style pastry shop La Bomboniera was founded by the Eppinger family of ungarian origin in 1836.

The all-time specialty of La Bomboniera is the Rigojansci, an antique cake that formed the base from which the Viennese pastry chef Demel created the Sacher Torte by adding layers of jam. The origin of the Rigojansci itself is attributed to a love story. Legend has it that it was created by the violinist Rigo Jangsi who wanted to seduce and surprise princess Clara who left her husband the Belgian prince Joseph de Caraman-Chimay out of love for him. The affair resulted in an international scandal.

Photo © Paolo Longo

Photo credits: all photos © Slow Italy, except (from top to bottom): Caffè Garibaldi and Umberto Saba: via Pinterest – artemagazine.it; Bar Tergesteo by Paolo Tosolini; Caffè Urbanis mosaic and ceiling © lironmil; Caffè Cattaruzza © Mimi Amnell and Paolo Longo; Gran Bar Italia © www.granbaritalia.it; La Bomboniera © Paolo Longo.

slowitaly.yourguidetoitaly.com


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